Designer Tarun Tahiliani is reimagining Indian couture through his menswear brand Tasva

Tarun Tahiliani is a name that needs no introduction, even if you are not familiar with the fashion world. With a career spanning almost three decades, his vision of blending Indian craftsmanship with Western aesthetics has paved the way for the Indian fashion industry to make its mark on a global platform.

While it could be argued that wearing a Tarun Tahiliani outfit might seem far fetched for most, the couturier has now embarked on a slightly different journey with his retail brand Tasva in collaboration with Aditya Birla Fashion Retail Limited (ABFRL) that focuses on affordable traditional Indian menswear.

Launched in 2021, Tasva has now multiple stores in major Indian cities. The designer was recently in Bengaluru to showcase Tasva’s new wedding collection and the launch of its new store in Indiranagar.

The collection is a harmonious interplay of floral, fluid and geometric artwork, creating designs that are not only rooted in India’s traditions, but are also distinctly modern as well. Inspired by the Tree of Life, the intricate elegance of Lippan art and the fluidity of paisleys, each piece is adorned with Indian embroidery techniques such as aari, zardozi and mirror work.

Tarun Tahiliani from Tasva fashion show.
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Amidst the store opening and fashion show in Bengaluru, the designer spoke about his new collection, the state of Indian textiles today and what goes behind creating a collection.

“Since we have been around for two years now with Tasva, we are reinforcing a lot of our own learnings about our customers into the collection. For instance, we have increased the use of colours — from soft pastels such as ivory, lilac and beiges to pale yellow and mustard for the haldi ceremony. The men are loving it, and it brings a festive touch to our Indian culture,” says Tarun.

“For this collection, we have bundis in subtle textures with lots of colour options; there is also patra work, that looks like mirror work, as that is trending now. We are constantly rethinking fit and comfort.”

At a time when the fashion industry, especially in India, is debating the revival of Indian craftsmanship amidst a consumer-driven culture and rapid technological advancement, Tarun is all about embracing modernity.

“Though we have made a lot of innovation in technology and medicine, when it comes to fashion, we need to stop trying to make everything look like costumes from Royal India. There is a vibrant new India now and we have to design for their needs; new fits with fabrics such as lycra, zippers in churidars or a corset choli that laces up — these are the big nods to modernity and technology of construction.”

“Anyone wearing Hema Malini’s costume from Sita and Geeta would look ridiculous in today’s world unless it was a period film. Times, life and trends change — fashion has to evolve with it,” he adds.

Over the years, with machines making a foray into the fashion industry, handlooms have taken a hit. “With changing times, we too, have to adapt. While there may not be a noticeable difference between the products of powerlooms and handlooms, the price drops are significant. It is a dilemma, but we are doing a lot of work to keep great weavers and master craftsmen in business.”

When asked about his current inspiration, Tarun spoke about his recent visit to the ongoing Kumbh Mela in Prayagraj. His association with Kumbh was also reflected in his 2013 Kumbhback Collection that drew from the colour palette of the sadhus. “From my recent visit to the Kumbh I am going to use those hues, though not in their regular tones but as Mughal colours. As a designer, ideas are constantly fusing in your head and that is the most interesting part of what we do.”

With multiple national and international shows under his belt, Tarun has showcased his collections on some of the world’s most prestigious runways. Reflecting on his journey, he says, “My first solo show was an AIDS fundraiser in 1994 and it was a sit-down dinner for 400 people. Then, for my show in Milan (in 2002, he was the first Indian designer to showcase his collection in Milan) they pushed me to do a modern version of India.

“We started the show with one sari and ended it with three lehengas — from the jewellery to the dhoti pants, everything was contemporary, along the lines of what a Western woman might wear. I also feel my last two Tasva shows were remarkable as I have never seen an energy like that at a Tarun Tahiliani show before.”

One piece of advice Tarun has for the upcoming designers: “It’s a brutal and competitive world, we are in an age of social media where things get copied faster. Pursue it as if it’s the only thing you have got to do, like breathing oxygen.”