“The task of cleaning sambrani gadde by vigorously rubbing them in a jute bag was always mine at home,” reminisces Vijayalakshmi Rao, a mental health professional from Basavanagudi. “Even though the task was laborious, it was worth it as my mother would make a delectable curry which was a household favourite. We haven’t made it ever since my mother passed.”
A popular winter vegetable, sambrani gadde as it is called in Kannada is known as koorka in Kerala, kooka in the Konkan region and sirukizhangu in Tamil Nadu.
A perennial herbaceous plant, native to tropical Africa, Chinese potatoes are also grown in Asian countries including Sri Lanka, India, Indonesia and Malaysia. In India, it is cultivated in coastal Karnataka, the Konkan region and Kerala and is available from October to February.
“It’s availability is closely tied to the winter season, making it a beloved vegetable during the cooler months,” says Bhavesh Pradip Tambe, Executive Chef, The Vitskamats Group. “Koorka is typically harvested from late October through early February, with the peak harvest season falling between December and January.”
It is key to note that while it is harvested earlier in Kerala, a special variety of this vegetable called Sanekallu Sambrani is available in the Udupi region during November and December. Cultivated in the village of Sanekallu, it is known to have a distinct flavour due to the local soil, water and climatic conditions.
Chinese potatoes
| Photo Credit:
Rashmi Gopal Rao
“The villages in and around Udupi are known for a better quality of this tuber,” says Naren Thimmaiah Barianda, Executive Chef, Vivanta Bengaluru, Residency Road. “They taste better due to terroir and are typically planted during the monsoon, so they are ready for harvesting by November. They are carefully dug out from the soil and these tiny tubers have a whitish and violet hue when peeled.”
Unique flavour and versatility
While Chinese potaotes look like colacasia (arbi/taro root), these muddy tubers are much smaller in size and have a typical aroma and flavour. “The flavour of koorka is mild, earthy and slightly nutty, making it adaptable to various types of dishes,” says Shailendra Singh, Corporate Chef Pride Hotels and Resorts. “It is less sweeter than a regular potato and has a more savoury profile that pairs well with a host of spices.”
With a firm and crunchy texture when not overcooked, it is not as sticky or fibrous as colacasia and has a much smoother feel. Given its ability to absorb flavours from a variety of ingredients, koorka is an ideal candidate for both simple and elaborate savoury dishes.
It is well known that cleaning this tuber deters most people from preparing it. Since they are small and the outer skin is rather thin, its removal can be quite challenging. One of the most effective methods is soak the potatoes in water for around 30 minutes to soften the skin. Next, drain the water and place them in a wet jute bag and rub well. This helps loosen the skin whilst leaving most of the tuber intact.
Stir fried Chinese potatoes
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Special Arrangement
One can also rub the potatoes against a stone or use a peeler to gently remove the skin. “Our hands would be blackened after cleaning them but the taste of the crunchy upkari (stir fry) my mother made is still fresh in my mind,” says Bengaluru-based Udaya Shenai, a former banker, who hails from Mulki in coastal Karnataka.
Delicious dishes
From stir fries and curries to sambhar and stew, koorka finds its place in a number of palatable preparations. “In the coastal Karnataka region, we cook sambrani gadde with tamarind extract, jaggery and a ground mixture of coconut, red chillies and mustard, and season it with curry leaves. We also mash it with raw green chillies and mix it with curds and temper it,” adds Vijayalakshmi.
Apart from this, koorka is used in sambhar with vegetables such as avarekai (hyacinth beans). “We also cook it in a buttermilk-based gravy with ground green chillies, cumin and coconut called majjige huli,” says Bengaluru-based homemaker, Ambika Holla.
The Konkan region too has several recipes for kooka. “My mother always made the upkari in a thick cast iron pan with coconut oil which had been used to fry sandige or vadams so it always had a special flavour,” says Udaya. “It is a part of our gravies where we pair it with legumes and cook them in a ground mixture of roasted chillies, coconut and tamarind. This is finished with a garlic seasoning.”
It can also be cooked like a batate saung where kooka is added instead of potatoes and cooked with plenty of onions, red chilli powder and a little bit of tamarind.
Sirukizhangu as it is called in Tamil Nadu is used to make sirukizhangu puli kozhambu (a tamarind-based curry) apart from being deep fried as chips. “Sirukizhangu Varuval which is koorka pan fried with asafoetida, turmeric, red chili powder and salt is a popular preparation,” says Chef Sheetharam Prasaad N, Corporate Executive Chef, GRT Hotels and Resorts. “It is cooked on low heat until brown and crispy and garnished with fried curry leaves and black pepper.”
Chef Naren further adds that koorka is an integral part of the Syrian Christian food menu during Christmas festivities. “We have some traditional recipes sourced from the households of the Syrian Christian community from Travancore who use this tuber during this season. There is a stir fry preparation called Koorka Mezhakkivaretti where sliced koorka is tossed with shallots, cumin and red chillies in coconut oil and seasoned. Koorka Chemeen Perlan, a coconut-based curry where koorka is paired with small prawns is also popular around this time,” he says.
Published – February 03, 2025 09:19 pm IST