What to eat while at Fort Kochi

It is going to be a carnival in Fort Kochi for the next five months. Apart from the art venues, food businesses get busy, reviving old menus and rustling up new ones. The period draws a diverse crowd to this part of the city, and going by the mood this year, the accent is on local cuisine. 

“Visitors are looking to experience the actual taste of Kerala, and what better way than through local dishes?” asks R Arun Kumar, chef and brand developer of Oceanos, which serves Keralan, Italian and seafood specialities at Elphinstone Road near St.Andrews Parish Hall in Fort Kochi.

It revamped its menu in August, keeping the Biennale in mind. The restaurant is also known for its fusion dishes using locally sourced seafood — such as prawns, fish and mud crabs. “For those who cannot handle spice, we have fused cuisines. Like our Malabar tamarind basil fish, for instance, which uses kokum or grilled oysters in herbs; or our mud crab, which uses butter garlic and Singapore chilli,” Arun adds. The menu was designed so as to appeal to the local food lover, not just the tourist, says Arun. 

Interestingly, there are Italians, French and Spaniards who can relish spicy food. “Twenty per cent of our menu is Keralan. Options include meen pollichathu, Alleppey fish curry, grilled or fried fish and vattichathu to name some.”

Pandhal Cafe, which opened at David Hall Art Gallery in Fort Kochi earlier this year, has been experimenting with its menu, offering a diverse mix of cuisines. So, while you order specials such as pork hock, a slow braised signature pork dish, you can also hope to have pizzas, sandwiches and tacos. However, keeping the local palate in mind, it has added rice bowls to the menu. “These bowls come in two variations – one with rice, traditional prawn curry and tangy lime leaf podi chammanthi and the other with steamed rice or Japanese fried rice, topped with fried egg. This comes in a quinoa version too,” says Jose Alex Mathew, AGM, Pandhal operations. 

While in Fort Kochi, here are five iconic eateries that reflect the historic port town’s unique ethos and would probably never go out of fashion.

Kashi Art Cafe

One of the first few cafes in Kochi to show that art and food made great bedfellows, Kashi has remained a favourite haunt for the visitor and the local alike. Be it the pulled beef sandwich or the lasagna, the salads or just plain grilled chicken, Kashi has a curation of cuisines. Try the chocolate cake. 

At Burger Street, Fort Kochi. ₹ 700 for two. 0484 221 5769.

Kayees Rahmathulla Cafe

A ferry ride away from Fort Kochi, in Mattancherry, is one of the oldest food joints in Kochi, the Kayees Rahmathulla cafe. Try the authentic, fragrant Kochi-style biryani with long grained-rice. Started by V K Kayee in 1948, this small eatery started out as a tea shop. Usually packed even on a working day, but the reward is worth it, say loyal fans.

Near Gujarati Temple, Mattancherry. ₹ 300 for two. 0484 2221234

Seagull Hotel

Watch cruise ships and large merchant vessels sailing, while you chug beer and eat fish moilee with flaky porottas at Hotel Seagull. Try squid, and prawn too. But if you crave local Chinese, that’s available too. Started by V S Krishnan, a musician and businessman four decades ago, Seagull retains the quaint vibe of the 80s. 

At Calvathy Road, Fort Kochi, next to Pepper House. 08042781365

Old Harbour Hotel

Eating fresh seafood along with organically-grown greens in a heritage monument ought to feel special. This 300-year-old building, where Dutch architecture with Portuguese influences meets modern amenities, is one of the first hotels of old Cochin. Try grilled fillet of seasonal fish, crabs, shrimp and jumbo prawns with a choice of wine.

On Tower Road, Fort Kochi. Approximately ₹ 3,000 for two. 9847029000

Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel

A wholesome seafood platter, which comes with seer fish, king prawns, squid, mud crab and more is the best bet at this heritage boutique hotel with a sea view. Sip wine and beer in between bites as you watch and listen to the crashing waves. 

At Beach Road, next to INS Dronacharya, Fort Kochi. Approximately ₹3,000 two. 0484-2218611.