Come September, the heritage properties and mansions of Chettinad will open their doors to host the second edition of The Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival. Comprising dance and musical performances, lectures on the region’s culture, and architectural tours, among other highlights, the 2023 edition promises a deep dive into the region’s rich legacy. “We want to make Chettinad the next big destination,” says Yacob George, general manager, The Bangala, who is organising the festival with Bharatanatyam artiste Leela Samson as curator. “We have realised that only tourism can revive Chettinad’s lost charm and protect its heritage which is at stake. We hope to build the festival akin to the Kochi Biennale, and put Chettinad on India’s travel map,” he adds.
The Madurai tour
The festival’s second edition will also take interested guests for a two-day guided tour of Madurai (₹75,000 per couple) on October 3 and 4. The itinerary includes a visit to the Madurai Meenakshi Temple, the excavation site and museum at Keeladi, a jasmine trail to see how the flowers are picked and turned into garlands, and visits to the Gandhi Museum, Nayakar Palace, and a Sungudi sari manufacturing unit. “Guests will also be treated to a traditional lunch at an old Saurashtrian home, and a fusion dinner of British and Indian cuisines at an Anglo-Indian home,” explains Yacob.
Guests can tour the Chettinad Palace and take a peek at the historic mansions belonging to the Nattukottai Chettiar community during the Kanadukathan Tour. The region is home to over 11,000 such palatial homes (half of what existed 50 years ago), many that now lie abandoned or in various stages of ruin, and 10 such mansions will be open to the public this year. As a part of the Lakshmi Palace and Chettinad Tiles Factory to see how traditional Athangudi tiles are made during the Athangudi Tour, and also explore Pothiyan Veedu and A.M.A. House in the Karaikudi Tour.“This time, the artists are, of course, different, and the audience has multiple choices as to what to see and where. The committee also decided to make the mornings more flexible for the guests, as a few found the schedule a bit hectic last year,” says Leela, who is looking forward to the opening night performance of Tala Vadyam — a percussion group performance, and a performance by singer-musician Amrit Ramnath.
The 2023 itinerary reveals that the focus this year is on presenting to participants more than just an overview of the Chettiar community, with a holistic look into their culture, past and present. The lectures and demonstrations in particular are reflective of this. Take, for instance, Rarattu, an enactment that showcases the passing down of Nagarathar values, culture, and heritage in the form of a lullaby. Or Mamiyar Sadangu, an enactment of a wedding ritual unique to the Nagarathar community. “This year, there is more about Chettinad and Chettiar heritage as compared to last year. There are talks on the banking system by Chettiars, an enactment of different wedding rituals, etc.,” says Meenakshi Meyyappan of The Bangala, who is looking forward to author and art conservator Rupika Chawla’s talk on Ravi Varma’s oleographs and their influence on Chettinad’s popular culture.
For temple enthusiasts, there are two temple tours to be guided by Professor Madhusudhanan Kalaichelvan, an architectural research scholar. “We are arranging a tour of Avudaiyar Kovil and the Ayyanar temples of Aranthangi, Kuthadivayal, and Panjati. The second tour will cover the Vijayalaya Choleeswaram and Ayyanar Temples at Naarthamalai,” adds Yacob.
Also new on this year’s itinerary is the bazaar that will showcase jewellery, saris, artworks, etc. Guests can also participate in workshops on making filter coffee, crafting terracotta horses, stringing flowers, and preparing palagarams (traditional snacks) such as cheedai and murukku. A cooking demonstration by Rakesh Raghunathan is also part of the line-up. “While chefs at The Bangala will prepare delicacies such as Chettinad pepper chicken, mandi, paniyaram, and mutton uppukari, etc, Rakesh will shed light on the history of Chettinad cuisine,” concludes Yacob.
September 29 to October 5. ₹1,50,000 for a couple patron pass inclusive of accommodation, entry to all events, and local transportation. Options for single and daily passes are also available. For bookings, email chettinadheritagefestival@gmail.com