On the kebab trail -

A view of the Ghalib Kabab Corner, Nizammuddin West in New Delhi
| Photo Credit: R.V.MOORTHY

It was a rain-washed day, and the pleasant dip in the temperature seemed just right for a plate of kebabs, more so when everybody was soaking in Eid festivities. So, I decided to order some from Ghalib’s Kabab Corner in Nizamuddin.

The first bite of a deliciously juicy buff seekh kebab brought back memories of my kebab sojourns in the city. One of the landmarks of Old Delhi was the sight of a kababchi, sitting on the side of a narrow lane, fanning coal embers for skewers of oil-brushed seekh kebabs.

Shaami kebab
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Moiunuddin, the great kababchi, who is alas no more, grilled the best kebabs in town. His sons now run an eatery called Sangam in Lal Quan, opposite the Hamdard building. I also love the gola or sutlee kebabs that you get in some parts of the Walled City, such as Chitli Kabar and Ballimaran. The kebab is so soft that it has to be held together with a long piece of thread — which is how it gets its name. Qureshi Kabab Corner in the Jama Masjid area is another favourite of mine. The owners say they are the descendants of the legendary kababchi, Maseeta.

While the Jama Masjid neighbourhood is the go-to area for all serious kebab lovers, there are little nooks and corners in many parts of Delhi where the fare is memorable. Some have downed their shutters, or moved to other locations. I used to often go to Galina’s in Gole Market for its kebabs. The fragrance of grilled fare would envelope me from a distance, and by the time I reached Galina’s, I used to be ravenous. It moved out of Gole Market several years ago to Prasad Nagar, near Paharganj.

In recent years, though, I have been getting my kebabs from Ghalib’s, located opposite the Markazi Mosque in Nizamuddin Basti. The seekh kebabs are moist, and somewhat spicy. The chicken seekh kebabs (if you order online) are for ₹220 for four pieces, the mutton seekhs for ₹240 and buffalo kebabs for ₹100. I enjoyed the buffalo meat kebabs, which were soft within and crisp on the outside. Ghalib’s has a seating arrangement inside the premises, and chairs and tables are placed out in the open air, too.

Sufiana Kebabs
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Another interesting food hub is in Zakir Nagar. The fare at the Talib Kabab Corner and Lucknowi Galawati Kabab shop are outstanding. In Bali Nagar in West Delhi, Baroouk, a new outlet, offers kebabs and biryani. A lot of Kebab lovers swear by Khan Chacha’s fare. The tiny eatery in Khan Market that captivated me was Aap Ki Khatir, which later moved out of the market. And another all-time favourite is Al-Kauser.

One of the nicer aspects of Delhi’s food revolution is the fact that some neighbourhood eateries can surprise you with their flavourful kebabs. A group of friends had recently brought over some grilled mutton kebabs from a meat shop called Pioneer in Mayur Vihar Phase 2, and these were simply super, with just the right texture and flavours.

My Ghalib encounter has taught me a lesson. One should not wait for good weather to have a kebab or two. Let the sun shine, or let it pour: just celebrate life with a plate of sizzling kebabs.