When we think of family secrets, we often imagine the worst — shady business dealings, cover-ups, or secret deals to protect loved ones. But the secret we are revealing is far less ominous and much more exciting. Maharashtra-based South Seas Distilleries, helmed by the Chinoy family, and with roots in the coastal town of Dahanu, has recently launched two exquisite mahura (as the mahua flower is called in Maharashtra) expressions: Six Brothers 1922 Resurrection and Six Brothers Small Batch (Original).
For the uninitiated, mahura is derived from the flowers of the Madhuca longifolia tree, commonly referred to as the Tree of Life. The tree holds immense cultural, economic, and ecological significance in India, particularly for tribal communities across Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, and Odisha.
Among these communities, the mahura flower has long been a staple, used both for subsistence and ceremonial purposes. These mahura-based drinks are central to religious rituals, cultural celebrations, and everyday life. However, during British colonial rule, mahura was labelled as ‘country liquor’ — a term used by the colonial administration to classify indigenous alcoholic beverages, distinguishing them from imported spirits like whisky, rum, and gin.
The term ‘country liquor’ carried a pejorative connotation, suggesting a lower-quality product compared to foreign spirits, which were seen as more refined. This classification contributed to the stigmatisation of traditional drinks like mahura, though these beverages remained deeply rooted in India’s tribal heritage. “Our association with this flower spirit spans over 102 years commercially, though it goes back much further. As a family of distillers, I’m now the fourth generation carrying this legacy forward. This new launch isn’t just another category for us — it’s deeply personal,” says Hamavand Chinoy, director of South Seas Distilleries.
The Chinoy family says mahura flowers are usually harvested during the summer, typically between March and April, when they naturally drop from the trees and are hand-collected. After collection, the flowers are dried in the sun to preserve them for later use. Once dried, the flowers are primarily fermented to produce the local alcohol.
The two spirits the family has launched have been in the pipeline a couple of years now, their connection to it has existed for over a century. Of course, there have been challenges — prohibition, ups and downs — but they have persevered, says Hamavand. “My great-grandfather, who began this journey with his five brothers in 1922, faced prohibition head-on, but the family’s passion never wavered. If you look closely at the label, you’ll notice his birth and passing years subtly included — something not many people are aware of, but it’s there, honouring his legacy,” he adds.
Government push
In recent years, there has been a shift toward recognising the cultural and economic value of mahura, particularly in Maharashtra. The central government, through initiatives like the Tribal Cooperative Marketing Development Federation of India (TRIFED), has been promoting the commercialisation of mahura liquor as part of efforts to support tribal economies.
In 2020, the Maharashtra government began exploring ways to regularise mahura production and create a market for it in the mainstream spirits industry. Proposals have been made to establish State-controlled outlets for mahura-based liquors, potentially easing the licensing process for tribal producers and incorporating mahura into the luxury spirits market.
The Six Brothers Small Batch is a refined, modern luxury spirit, double-distilled in copper pot stills and platinum-filtered for a crisp, balanced texture. The bottle design, by Rupi Chinoy, creative director at South Seas Distilleries, features six pairs of eyes at the base, and honours the century-old Chinoy family legacy. With a sweet, earthy nose of dried fruits, a silky palate with savoury notes, and a clean, spicy finish. This 750 ml spirit (ABV 40%) is available in Maharashtra.
The second, more premium variant, called the Six Brothers 1922 Resurrection is touted by the family as the world’s oldest matured mahura spirit. Aged in oak casks for decades, this limited release of just 102 bottles marks 102 years of the family’s distilling legacy. Each bottle celebrates four generations of mastery. Priced at ₹1,02,000 by allocation, it comes in a 750 ml bottle with 40% ABV.
While it resembles an extremely aged malt in terms of palate, appearance and smell (because of the influence of the casks), it does have a unique flavour profile and taste. “We want this spirit to be the global spirit from India. Much like spirits from South America that are globally recognised, we want ours to be just as well received. There’s no preconceived notion about what this spirit should taste like — people will form their own perception as they experience it,” says Hamavand. He adds that the goal is to take India global with this spirit because, up until now, every major spirit sold in India has been borrowed from another country. “But this one? This is different. This is the spirit we want the world to borrow from India,” he says.
Published – October 09, 2024 03:09 pm IST