Jolene by the Sea in Goa is the new dining spot with a view

Jolene — the fiery redhead who has been haunting country music playlists and singer Dolly Parton since 1973 — is not just a name anymore. She has had quite the makeover. In 2024, Beyoncé rewrote ‘Jolene’ for her Grammy-winning album Cowboy Carter, but this time, rather than pleading, she was laying down the law.

But if Jolene were in Goa in 2025, would she really be flirting with anyone’s man? I reckon, she would be too busy sipping a spritz, watching the sunset, and living her best life. You can imagine finding her at Jolene by the Sea, her eponymous restaurant in buzzy Anjuna.

From pandemic dream to reality

This swanky 140-seater restaurant is not about heartbreak; it is about good food and great views. Former actor Amrita Arora Ladak and her husband Shakeel Ladak had always dreamed of owning a restaurant, but life got in the way — until the pandemic hit.

“Shakeel and I travel a lot, and every time we’d come across an incredible place, we’d look at each other and say, ‘One day, we have to do this,’” says Amrita. “Shakeel is obsessed with discovering bars, and me? I love fine dining — places that make you want to dress up, sit back and savour every bite.”

With time suddenly on their hands, the couple began shaping Jolene in 2020. But things really picked up pace last year, and, before they knew it, Jolene by the Sea was ready to welcome guests.

Bohemian vibes, worldly comfort

Step into Jolene by the Sea, and it feels like walking into elevated bohemia. Rattan, rope, and textured cabanas break up the space beautifully, while the indoor section channels Balinese charm with towering palm leaves and amoeba-like chandeliers. The alfresco area has stunning views of the sea and swaying coconut trees in the distance — perfect for lingering over a cocktail while the sky turns pink over Anjuna’s cliffs.

Tickling your tastebuds 

At the heart of Jolene by the Sea is its menu, designed by Chef Suvir Saran, who was part of the Michelin-starred Dévi in New York. It is modern global comfort food, indulgent yet unexpected.

Chef Ashish’s Mexican-Indian roots bring Latin-American twist to many dishes, adding another dimension. Take the crisp and golden calamari or the Kochi lobster cornettos, fun-sized bites packed with buttery richness. The Madrid to Morjim prawns? A tribute to how seafood travels across cultures.

Then there is the T, B & C salad — tomato, burrata, and cornflakes (yes, really). It is creamy, crunchy and full of surprises. One of the biggest hits is the tuna tostada, a staple of Mexican cantina food, now has its moment as a trendy seafood dish. And while the Japanese treat tuna with sacred precision, Chef Ashish has thrown out the rulebook. He has used them in uneven chunks. The result? A bold, vibrant dish that makes no apologies.

Feruzan Bilmoria has curated the cocktails. I had two drinks: All That Glitters Is Not Gold, which is light, refreshing, and sundowner-perfect. It comes with a delicate chip as garnish and is topped with orange caviar. It is a little luxe, a little playful and has just the right amount of sparkle. Round two was Not A Picante.

Inspired by the classic picante, it has a cheeky twist — an ice-shaving insert and a hint of heat.

For dessert, I stuck to the classics — reinvented. Jolene’s Shaggy Everyday Sundae was rich, layered and indulgent, with all the decadent textures of a childhood favourite. The Great Wall of Anjuna was a dense, moist chocolate cake served with syrup and ice cream on the side. Chef Ashish’s take on churros was a subtle, flavourful, with a twist that made it distinctly their own.

The Goa pull

With new restaurants opening constantly, some say Goa’s food and beverage scene is reaching saturation. But Gaurav Batra, a partner at Jolene by the Sea, disagrees .“There’s never an off-season in Goa,” he says. “There’s a mature, high-spending audience with second homes here. They visit often, and the market does not phase them.”

And speaking of vibes, Jolene by the Sea has an appointed a Vibe Manager. Enter Ibrahim Khalil Khan, a Kashmir native who has been calling Goa home for the past year. His job? To quite literally check the pulse of the restaurant. He chats, laughs, ensures everyone is having a great time and smoothens any potential hiccups in service.

While the overall experience at Jolene by the Sea was pleasant, there are a few things they will need to fine-tune. For one, the menu could use a bit more structure. It is quite extensive, which makes sense given how much we love variety, but a little more focus would not hurt.

Anjuna is packed with new restaurants, and the market is already quite saturated. The challenge for Jolene by the Sea will be getting people to come for the food rather than just the setting. The partners are clearly passionate about the quality of what is on the plate, but in Goa, the appeal of a good view and a sundowner can overshadow the dining experience. If that happens, the food can sometimes take a backseat.

Sustaining patronage will be key, and while a hint of celebrity involvement might draw in the crowds initially, it is hard to say how it will play out in a competitive space. I hope it does not turn into another party hotspot — there is potential for that, especially since they only open at 5 pm. For now, the focus seems to be on dining, but maintaining that balance will be key.

The team did mention that the menu is still evolving, and they are working on refining the flavours. One hopes that as they tweak things, they elevate the overall experience while keeping the integrity of the food intact.

But for now, Jolene by the Sea is not chasing business goals — it is chasing memories .“We want people to come here, enjoy themselves, and take something back with them,” says Amrita.

Jolene by the Sea is at Ground Floor, Survey No 212/11, Dmello Vaddo, Anjuna. A meal for two with cocktails costs approximately ₹3,500 plus taxes.