Gulmarg: where traditional Kashmiri hospitality meets modern après-ski experiences

For Kashmir native Krishan Anand, Gulmarg is more than just a picturesque ski destination — it is a repository of memories steeped in nostalgia. He fondly recalls stories of his grandfather, who, in the 1960s, would ride up to the town (situated in Baramulla district, north of Kashmir) on horseback, leaving his car in Tangmarg below. Back then, Gulmarg was a serene retreat, where newlyweds like his grandparents spent their days playing golf on lush meadows and savouring steaming cups of kahwa at the historic Nedous Hotel, established in 1888 — a tradition that continues today.

While Gulmarg has earned international recognition as a premier ski destination, famed for its pristine powder snow — a result of its high-altitude location and favourable climate, which brings an average annual snowfall of 14 metres and sometimes up to 20 metres — Krishan believes its true essence lies in its enduring traditions.

“The same waiter who served my grandfather kahwa in the 1960s, when life in Gulmarg was quieter and simpler, still welcomes me today in his green uniform at Nedous. That kind of continuity is magical,” he says.

A rich skiing heritage

Gulmarg’s skiing history dates back to the early 20th century. In 1927, two British Army officers established the Ski Club of India in the town, making it a central hub for skiing activities during that era. Following India’s independence in 1947, skiing in the region waned but saw a revival in the 1960s. In 1968, the Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering (IISM) was established to promote winter sports and train ski instructors.

The development of the Gulmarg Gondola, now one of the world’s highest cable cars, further boosted the region’s appeal. Phase one, connecting Gulmarg to Kongdoori, was completed in 1998, while phase two, extending to Apharwat Peak (4,390 metres), became operational in 2005. This infrastructure opened up the higher reaches of the mountains to skiers, transforming Gulmarg into a hub for both backcountry skiing and heli-skiing.

Culture of camaraderie

The magic of Gulmarg does not end when the ski runs do. Its après-ski culture is steeped in warmth and camaraderie, evoking the charm of Europe’s golden age of skiing. As a local hotelier who wished to be quoted anonymously puts it, Gulmarg feels like what Chamonix (a resort area situated in the French Alps) was decades ago — before the glitz of social media and late-night parties turned such destinations into Instagram hotspots.

“Here, the rhythm of the day revolves entirely around skiing,” says the hotelier, referring particularly to the exclusive Highlands Park Hotel, which, he believes, embodies the spirit of traditional après-ski. “Guests are up by 7 am for breakfast, on the slopes by 9 am, and skiing continues until late afternoon. By 4 or 5 pm, they’re back, unwinding in the lounge — deliberately not called a bar — where they share stories of the day’s runs over a drink.”

Dinner is served by 8 pm, and by 9.30 pm, the hotel quiets down, as skiers retire early to prepare for another day on the slopes. This contrasts with other hotels catering to domestic tourists, where late-night parties and Instagram-driven activities often overshadow skiing itself. “Here, the focus remains on the mountains,” says the hotelier.

A new era

In 2023, Gulmarg recorded a staggering 1.65 million visitors, according to Javeed-ur-Rehman, assistant director of tourism, Gulmarg. The post-pandemic surge in travel has brought new energy to the town, especially during the ski season, which lasts from December to mid-March.

Gulaam Gouse Deewani, who runs OMG Luxury Holidays, explains how tourism has grown exponentially since 2021. “Winter tourism, in particular, has surged. Many visitors are from cities like Delhi and Mumbai — people who used to travel to Europe for skiing are now realising that Kashmir offers comparable experiences in terms of snow quality, terrain, and infrastructure,” he says.

Modern thrills

Heli-skiing is an integral part of Gulmarg’s evolution. Participants are dropped by helicopter onto remote, untouched slopes, such as Apharwat Peak, Sunset Peak, and Shark Fin, offering some of the best powder snow and longest descents in the world. With runs tailored to advanced skiers, heli-skiing remains a major draw for global adventurers.

For those seeking something different, night skiing has gained popularity, with illuminated slopes offering an extraordinary way to experience the mountains under the stars. Visitors can even book private sessions, tailoring their skiing experience hour by hour.

Beyond skiing, Gulmarg offers unique nighttime activities such as leopard-spotting treks through its forests, where lucky adventurers might catch a glimpse of the region’s elusive wildlife.

Gulaam emphasises how these developments have fostered a sense of community among visitors. “It’s not just about skiing anymore; it’s about connection,” he says. Skiers bond over shared experiences, meeting on the slopes and later gathering around bonfires, enjoying DJ nights, live music, and traditional Kashmiri barbecues.

Modern luxury

Krishan is also bringing a fresh twist to Gulmarg’s winter scene with his Secret Ski Party (@secretskiparty), a series of three boutique, invite-only ski festivals scheduled for February and March 2025. Set at the historic Nedous Hotel, the events will host an exclusive group of 40 global tastemakers, blending skiing with luxury experiences like snow yoga, a fashion showcase (and an after party) by celebrated designers Shivan & Narresh, and dinners at the longest table in the Himalayas.

“We’re combining adventure with indulgence,” says Krishan, who sees this as a way to showcase Gulmarg’s unique charm while supporting local communities.

While Gulmarg’s growth is undeniable, Krishan and others are mindful of the challenges it brings. “The abrogation of Article 370 has opened up new opportunities, but it has also created resistance from locals who fear losing their livelihoods to larger players,” he explains. However, by involving locals in tourism — whether as ski instructors, porters, or chefs — he hopes to strike a balance between modernisation and preserving Gulmarg’s soul.

Published – January 24, 2025 04:01 pm IST