The panettone at Pumpkin Tales
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
There is a tense silence in the kitchen as Chef Mirko Tognetti lifts his knife. He slices through the fluffy panettone, fragrant with the scent of oranges and studded with plump raisins, in a single swipe then leans in to inspect it carefully. “It’s getting better,” he says, and everyone heaves a sigh of relief. The Pumpkin Tales team has, after all, been battling this traditional Italian Christmas bread for a while now.
After multiple tries, and a trip to Italy, Chef Chindi Varadarajulu finally invited Mirko to Chennai to walk the team through the process so they could launch the bread in time for Christmas this year. “Making this is a 36-hour process… But it’s worth it,” smiles Chindi, as we enjoy sweet fluffy slices with cups of powerful espresso.
Chindi Varadarajulu and Mirko Tognetti
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Chindi first met Mirko in 2018 when she attended a workshop at his gelataria in Luca, Tuscany. Popular for his pistachio gelato, Mirko is also known for creating unusual flavours. “I do chocolate with a taste of Tuscany cigars,” he says, adding that it is a tribute to Luca’s summer movie festival. “It’s a very Clint Eastwood flavour!”
For the panettone, however, he goes old school. “The balance is very important” he says, explaining how the flour is kneaded with butter, sugar, flour and egg yolk (lots and lots of egg yolks) and Mirko’s sourdough starter. “He’s called Rambo,” he chuckles, pointing at the carefully wrapped dough, which he brought from Italy.
For this Christmas bread, the dough needs to rise three times, billowing to 3.5 times its original size for that signature airy, flaky texture.
“Every part of the process is challenging,” says Chindi, saying the team has been baby sitting the dough, even checking in on it through the night. “We make the first dough, then let it ferment till it triples. Then we add more fruits, butter and egg yolks the next day. After that it has to rise for another 12 to 14 hours.”
Mirko Tognetti with a panettone
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Finally it is baked, with a skewer running through each loaf. Mirko demonstrates why — pulling a batch out of the oven and then flipping it over, so the loaves hang like chubby chandeliers to cool. “It’s so airy that if we don’t suspend them, they may collapse.”
The festive bread clearly involves a lot of work. Is it worth it? “For me, it’s the best bread,” says Mirko. “I love when you have to try and try to get something right.” He pauses thoughtfully, “I must have something to fight. And with the panettone, every dough is different, and so every time I start, it’s a fight.”
Panettone is now available at Pumpkin Tales and is priced at ₹875 for the classic, and ₹975 for the chocolate (500 gms each).
