Check out Nora’s Cantina, a sunny spot for Spanish and Portuguese cuisine in Goa

The buzz in Panjim’s bustling Patto area has melted into a faraway whisper, even though it is a busy weekday. The whir of traffic and the milling of tourists are things forgotten.

As you step in, your gaze is bound to stray upwards. A generous assemblage of foliage spills down from the ceiling, and along with the recurring, circular lighting, creates an unmistakable sense of drama. Even lending to the place, a certain, one of its kind, distinct island feel, as one would get at a luxe, standalone restaurant.

We are in the city’s newest dining address, Nora’s Cantina. And, it is hard to tell that it is housed inside the recently opened, Novotel Goa Panjim hotel.

At Accor’s fourth Novotel property in Goa, there is a recurring dialogue between Nature and architecture here, with the curvilinear balconies creating an undulating softness wrapping the exterior of the building. The courtyard, bathed in natural light serves as a serene epicentre, a key feature of hotel. The rooms have clean lines with pastel hues like soft blues, giving them an overall brightness and cheer.

Light drenched and airy, with a minimalist feel to it, Nora’s is the address for delectable Spanish and Portuguese cuisine. Located at the same level as the swimming pool, the place has distinctive areas starting from the Tapas Zone, the family-style meal at The Social Plate to the relaxed alfresco seating and bar stools perfect for lazy brunches and exquisite cocktails. Designed after a personal living room with clean lines, glass doors and warm lighting, the place is inspired by the ñora, a round, red pepper which is an essential spice for Spanish cooking, normally dried in the sun and used ground in numerous Spanish dishes, including a classic Romesco sauce.

“Ñora Peppers play a significant role in the Spanish dishes on our menu, particularly our seafood Paella Española de Marisco. This small, round, red pepper imbues a certain sweet and smoky flavour to the dish. We also incorporate a red sauce made from these peppers into our tapas, specifically the Churros de Queso de Cabra, with its envelopingdepth of flavour,” shares Sous Chef, Utsha Chakraborti.

We start the meal with a shareable small plate, Queso de Cabra, a comforting, warm goat cheese with a burst of fresh tomato, zucchini, onion jam, and greens. Fish lovers would delight in the Pintxos Matrimonio, a crisp puff pastry, the anchovies adding an unctuous saltiness, juxtaposed with a flourish of parsley salsa. The Burrata Caprese is a creamy rendition of fresh burrata, garden-ripe tomatoes, basil, oregano and drizzle of extra virgin olive oil singing out sweet notes in symphony.

The food here is a simple yet clever rendition of fresh ingredients put together, with very little manipulation, except what’s just right, and needed. There’s restraint whenever required, which translates into an overarching balance.

And, I know this may sound a tad unbelievable, considering the tableau of dishes to be sampled, but my favourite had to be the soup! Yes, the soup. Sopa de Hongas is a clear porcini mushroom soup; comforting, with a lingering umami. Garnished with croissant pieces, onions and thyme, this is simply not one of those heavy-duty, creamy soups that knock you down, but one with a contrast of lightness and deep, haunting flavours.

If there was a dish I’d return for, it would have to be the paella. I had the vegetarian version with mustard cress, but it didn’t quite cut it and was a tad forgettable. And then, what is a paella if not bursting with treasures of the sea like clams, mussels, calamari, and prawns!

I did leave room for a slice of the pizza; the sides curling up like they should, the dough fermented for a good 36 hours. Light, airy and delicious with the right balance of chewiness.

A curated beverage menu has some interesting cocktails that can be paired with the food or enjoyed on their own. The Malt O Nora was a complete surprise package. Oaky, vanilla, single malt and peach notes seductively tangoing, with a dash of tabasco for a spicy kick! Another standout is the Purple Cloud, a gentler cocktail with vodka and whisperings of blueberry, basil, lemon, and lavender.

‘Nora’s Cantina wholeheartedly embraces the zero-kilometre concept,’ Chef Utsha tells me. ‘Our vegetarian paella features Goan red rice, which also supports local agriculture. Additionally, we procure fresh seafood from local vendors, further reinforcing our commitment to using locally-sourced ingredients.’ The Goan Ukade rice certainly has a slightly nuttier flavour and a firmer texture which lends it that bite!

Nora’s Cantina at Novotel Goa Panjim, EDC Complex, Patto Centre, Panaji, is open from noon to midnight. A meal for two costs nearly ₹3,500.